Black nylon. Accidental oversizing. A preoccupation with control. All things to keep in mind when thinking about how to style the bouncer uniform, the most uniform of all the uniforms, really, and this season’s most recherche look.
First mooted with the return of the MA1 jacket earlier this year (a style that veered from subcultural emblem to Topman), the focus is on the jacket. Start with Justin Bieber, whose new line of Nomad merch includes a button-down nylon jacket embellished with “STAFF”, a snip at $100, and work backwards. Keen sense of irony? Ain’t Nobody Cool has a line of natty, wipe-down security jackets like this one, last seen on-stage on Julian Cope. If you have money to burn, Fear Of God, the LA menswear label that is part alt-rock, part-grunge, and worn by Kanye West and Beyoncé, has excessively puffed up bomber jackets that aren’t cheap but are built to last. Failing that, and if you have luck on your side, it’s still possible to get your hands on a Vetements Polizei-style raincoat.
All waterproof, all over-sized, all based on the sorts of jackets worn by SJM bouncers, the promoters behind the gigs you go to. Why now, you ask. This season’s menswear is leaning towards the utilitarian, the fetishisation of uniforms and, thankfully, a focus on the practical. Other trends to look out for include butcher aprons and fishermen “chic”. As for the shirt and tie, dad jeans and wraparound shades, best to steer clear.